A Christmas Stroll through Vyšehrad and an Evening at the Czech National Theatre

 When people travel to Prague, most explore the city center and visit Český Krumlov. These two alone are filled with so many amazing sights that time always feels too short in the Czech Republic. However, if you can spare just a little more time, there are two places I always recommend.



1. Vyšehrad

https://maps.app.goo.gl/aQNycdZVSAJERc4NA


Vyšehrad is a high hill located in the south of central Prague, on the right bank of the Vltava River.

You can take a ride-share service like Bolt from the city center for under $3, and if you take the metro, you can get off at Vyšehrad station and walk about 10 minutes uphill to reach the top, so accessibility is excellent.

In fact, it was a fortress built around the 10th century. So it boasts a view from which you can look over the entire landscape. There's also a beautiful old cathedral and a cemetery worth visiting.

Once up there, you can walk along the outer edge for about 30 minutes and see most key spots. I visited this place on December 25th, 2024—Christmas Day. If you visit in the fall, you can leisurely enjoy the view of Prague city dyed in autumn colors, with gentle sunlight reflected in the calm Vltava River. Even though it was winter, it wasn't that cold, and there was no wind, so just a light jacket was enough.


Photos from Vyšehrad of the Vltava River
Photos from Vyšehrad of the Vltava River



Photos from Vyšehrad of the city view
Photos from Vyšehrad of the city view

Photos from Vyšehrad of Prague Castle
Photos from Vyšehrad of Prague Castle




In the center of the hill, there's a church and cemetery side by side. The Basilica of St. Peter and St. Paul (Bazilika svatého Petra a Pavla) was initially built in 1070, but the version we see today is a reconstruction from the 19th century. From the outside, it looks pretty aged and darkened, but it's actually younger than it appears. Usually, there's an entrance fee, so I hadn't entered before, but since it was Christmas, the church was open to the public, and I could go in freely.


Photos of Bazilika svatého Petra a Pavla
Bazilika svatého Petra a Pavla

Interior of Bazilika svatého Petra a Pavla
Interior of Bazilika svatého Petra a Pavla


Maybe it's because I have religious faith, but whenever I travel around Europe, I feel deeply moved whenever I step into a cathedral, church, or mosque. And this church was no exception.


When you exit the cathedral, a cemetery is immediately adjacent. This place should not be skipped. From the 19th century onward, many renowned people who contributed to the development of the Czech Republic are buried here. Not only politicians but also novelists, athletes, musicians, and others. That day seemed to be the anniversary of some athlete's death because a TV crew was filming the grave and conducting interviews. Here lies Bedřich Smetana, famous for Má vlast (My Country), and Antonín Leopold Dvořák, known for From the New World. The appearance of Smetana's grave marker changes each time I visit, so it's best to remember it roughly rather than in detail. I told my kids to look for the graves of these two composers, and they enjoyed walking around trying to find them. Strangely, every time I came here, I met Korean visitors—and this time was no different. They were pleased when I pointed out Dvořák's grave to someone.


Dvořák’s gravestone
Dvořák’s gravestone

Photos of Smetana's gravestone
Smetana's gravestone


So, if you happen to be walking here alone, listening to Má vlast or From the New World will be a meaningful experience. The Bohemian spirit expressed in the music of Czech composers fits this place—and Prague—very well.


2. National Theatre (Národní divadlo)


The second place I recommend is the Czech National Theatre. If you don't dislike classical music, I hope you check in advance whether there's a performance scheduled at the National Theatre when planning your trip to the Czech Republic.


www.narodni-divadlo.cz



You can see quite many performances at the National Theatre throughout the year. Because there are so many performances, making a reservation is not tricky. And above all, the price is fantastic. You can enjoy a high-quality National Opera and Czech Symphony Orchestra performance for around $50 from an A-class seat. Naturally, the younger you are, the cheaper the price. In Korea, an A-class seat would cost at least $250. That's why I started by checking their website while planning a trip to Prague.


Photo of the National Theatre from Charles Bridge
Photo of the National Theatre from Charles Bridge


However, even if you've reserved a ticket, you must double-check the performance venue. The oldest "National Theatre" is located near Charles Bridge. Since I had watched performances there before, I naturally headed there again, only to be surprised—every entrance was closed. I walked around the building and eventually found an open back door. About 20 people were gathered there. Judging from the atmosphere, everyone seemed confused and unable to enter. They were all in the same situation as me. We were told we had to go to a different venue, and everyone was shocked and slowly dispersed. The venue I needed to go to, The State Opera, was located next to the National Museum. Naturally, it was over 30 minutes away on foot, so I had no choice but to grab a taxi.


4 National Theatre venues
  4 National Theatre venues



I ended up arriving 5 minutes late. The ticket said latecomers might not be allowed in, but the staff kindly guided me, saying this mix-up happens sometimes. However, they told me I couldn't sit in my front-row seat until intermission and guided me to a narrow box seat instead. Though nervous and breathless from running, I was grateful to be let in. There were four of us, so we had to squeeze in or half-stand to watch the performance, but in fact, this is a more luxurious type of seating. Watching the opera house, orchestra, and performers from a high-up box seat was an unexpected blessing. Still, if I ever get the same chance again, I'll check the venue ahead of time and arrive early to relax in my proper seat.


Act 1 had already begun when I arrived
Act 1 had already begun when I arrived


So be sure to double-check the venue on your ticket.

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